Yerevan

Our journey in Armenia began in Yerevan. Founded as a settlement in 8 BC, modern-day Yerevan was designed by Alexander Tamanian. Initially, he designed the city for 20,000 inhabitants while today, Yerevan has a population of about a million people. Yerevan recent history includes the control of Russia until 1918, when Armenians gained independence. Two years later, Yerevan became part of the Soviet Union until 1991. 

On our first day in Armenia, we arrived to the bus station late at night, and we ordered a taxi with the app Yandex and headed to our hostel. The next day, our first stop was Republic Square, the heart of the city. The Republic square is home to many government buildings and cultural institutions, including the History and the National Art Gallery Museum. From this square, you will also meet people offering day-trip tours around Yerevan (e.g. to visit ancient monasteries such as Geghard and Garni). 

Here are some other things I recommend doing in Yeveran:

GUM Market - we went to colourful market by metro

Cascade Complex at night

Our preferred method of exploring a city is to start with a historical tour to gain some insight into the local culture and traditions, therefore, we booked a guided tour for the first day in the morning. Unfortunately, our tour at 9:30 am was cancelled at the last minute, and although they wrote us a message, we did not have data to check our emails.  After getting some Wifi and learning about the postponed tour to 2pm, we decided that it was best to get a data package. You can buy a data package plan of 5G for around 6.5 Euros close to Republic Square in Viva-MTS. We have no complaints with Viva-MTS as it worked perfectly, and I also read in reviews that Beeline also works well for buying data. 

After grabbing some breakfast, we headed to the History Museum, but it didn't open until 11 am, so we took a stroll around the city and read about Armenian history on the plaques outside. 

The History Museum of Armenia

Entrance: 2,000 AMD (4.7€) + Guide: 4,000 AMD (9.4€)

The History Museum in Armenia was undergoing renovations during our visit and we were able to explore only three rooms. The first room we visited showcased a collection of old maps featuring Armenia. These maps were significant as they demonstrated the territorial changes that Armenia has undergone throughout history.

Moving on, we entered a room displaying jewelry that women in Armenia wore to signify their status. These ornaments were worn by women until the 20th century and included rings, belts, headbands, earrings, and more. Armenians believed that bad luck could transmit through the forehead, so they often wore headbands to prevent any ill luck from entering. Married women wore belts, and all these ornaments were filled with decorations and symbols. The upper triangle on the ornaments represented a man, while the downward triangle represented a woman. A frog is a common symbol seen in the ornaments multiple times, representing fertility. These ornaments were often passed down through generations, signifying their cultural significance.

Finally, we explored the weapon section, which showcased a variety of weapons used for hunting, as well as some used during war. The weapons were heavily decorated and showcased the artistic skills of the craftsmen. In the center of the room was a sword from Egypt, adding to the diversity of the collection.

Overall, these exhibits provided an insight into Armenia's history and cultural practices, demonstrating the importance of art, symbolism, and tradition in Armenian society.

Free tour guide in Yerevan

After visiting the History Museum of Armenia and having lunch, we embarked on a comprehensive city tour in the afternoon, led by our guide Tigran, whose tour we highly recommend - check it out here. Our journey began in Republic Square, where we learned that the buildings in the square, painted in shades of pink, beige, and black, were constructed using local volcanic stone found in Armenia. These structures replaced the original balconies that adorned Republic Square before the Soviet era. During the tour, we paused at a cafe that preserved replicas of the original balconies that once characterized the streets of Yerevan, including Republic Square.

Later, we visited Genocide Park, where we saw replicas of crosses that were destroyed during the Armenian Genocide. Next, we proceeded to Freedom Square/Opera Square, where we caught a glimpse of the Mother Armenia monument in the distance, a female figure holding a sword and a shield. This statue replaced the one of Stalin after a difficult rebellion that claimed the life of one soldier. We also observed the statue of the famous Armenian writer Hovhannes Tumanyan, who advocated for Armenian sovereignty. Although he died in Russia, popular culture dictates that his heart was returned to Armenia for his burial (he is currently burried in Georgia).

Our final destination was the Cascade Complex, situated near Freedom Square. During the tour, we sampled a juice made from the common bush found in Lake Sevan called sea buckthorn and tasted some delicious bread baked on the walls, a practice we had observed in Georgia. Additionally, we learned captivating facts about Armenian culture and history, such as the origin of the country's name "Armenia," which means "People of the Aram" and is mainly used by foreigners. Locals refer to their nation as "Hayastan," named after Hayk, the founding father of the Armenian nation and a descendant of Noah, whose Ark landed on Mount Ararat after the Great Flood, according to legend.

The Cascade Complex in Yerevan

Views from the Cascade complex of Yerevan and Mount Ararat in the background

Mother Armenia statue is visible from many parts of Yerevan and was built as a tribute to the strength and resilience of the Armenian people. It stands 51 meters tall and depicts a woman holding a sword in one hand and a shield in the other. 

Panoramic view of Yerevan and Mount Ararat at a distance from the top where Mother Armenia is located

The National Art Gallery museum

The National Art Gallery museum, founded in 1921 by the renowned Armenian architect Rafayel Israyelyan, is considered one of the oldest and largest art museums in the country. When we visited, the museum was undergoing restoration, so we only went to two expositions, including sculptures and impressionisms. Sculptures included the collection from Hakob Gyurjian, a renowned Armenian artist who studied in Moscow and France. Notably, the museum also showcases "The Worker," a statue with squared facial forms and a hammer that was built to represent the hardworking attitude of Armenians (more information below). Additionally, the museum features an impressionist section with paintings from various Armenian artists. 

The Worker


In the Soviet era, Armenian artists created a massive sculpture of a man with sharply defined, square facial features holding a hammer. 

The statue, known as "The Worker," was intended to symbolize the diligent work ethic of the Armenian people (not communism). However, even after Armenia gained independence from the Soviet Union, many disapproved of the statue due to its similarity to Soviet-era propaganda. 

In 1997, the statue was mysteriously destroyed overnight. Today, only the face and hand of the man remain, which can be viewed in a museum.

Statue called Salome (1925), from Armenian artist Hakob Gyurjian (1881-1948).

Painting by Stepan Aghajanian (1863-1940) of the Ararat mountain and valley

Meshop Mashtots sculpture, pointing at the Armenian alphabet which he invented in 405. 

Matenadaran Manuscript Museum

The Matenadaran Manuscript Museum is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in Armenian history and culture. During our half-morning visit, we opted for a private tour, which I highly recommend for the valuable insights the guide shared with us (entry fee of approximately 20 euros for two people with guide). 

The museum's collection comprises early Armenian religious manuscripts gathered from various parts of the Armenian-controlled areas, including the Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia, which reached even as far as the Mediterranean Sea in modern-day Turkey. Before the creation of the Armenian alphabet in 405 by Meshop Mashtots, the Armenian language was spoken and people wrote in Greek or Arabic. The museum houses psalters, gospels, and depictions of health and Christian figures, full of symbols such as palm trees representing victory, the heron representing grace and beauty, and pine cones representing enlightenment and illumination. Even the pomegranate seeds' outer layer symbolizes bitterness before Christ, and the inner layer represents sweetness after becoming a Christian.

The museum also features a catalog of international manuscripts in different languages such as Arabic, Greek, and Latin, including garments with manuscripts from Ethiopia. Additionally, you can view copies of maps, manuscripts related to medicine and veterinary science, and ingredients used to make ink. For instance, the black ink was made from the outside part of a nut, and metal was added to it so that it would turn a dark black color when oxidized.

Finally, going back to the first floor, the museum showcases archives of official documents such as visas issued by the French government or medals given to Armenian soldiers who fought in World War II. 

Not only is the collection in the museum fascinating, but the institution also serves as a research institution where scholars from all over the world come to study the manuscripts, contributing to the advancement of understanding of Armenian history and culture. Therefore, I highly recommend visiting this museum and supporting its research endeavors.

Ararat brandy museum

The museum showcases the history and production process of Ararat brandy, which has been produced in Armenia since 1887. 


Interestingly, it is said that Winston Churchill was a fan of Ararat brandy and had a special relationship with the Armenian people. The museum is open daily and offers guided tours in multiple languages.


In addition to the brandy-making exhibits, the museum also features a collection of rare and valuable brandy bottles and hosts tastings of various Ararat brandies.

Saint Gregory The Illuminator Cathedral

In the heart of the Armenian capital city of Yerevan stands the magnificent Saint Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral. The story of its construction dates back to 2001 when the Armenian Church began the project to build a new cathedral in Yerevan. The cathedral was named after Saint Gregory the Illuminator, who is considered the patron saint of the Armenian Church.

The construction of the cathedral was a massive undertaking, involving the efforts of hundreds of skilled workers and artisans. It was built using traditional Armenian architectural techniques, including the use of pink and white tufa stone, and features an impressive dome that can be seen from miles away.


Armenian food and restaurant recommendations


Our guide provided some excellent restaurant recommendations in Armenia, and the food was truly exceptional. Here are a few of our favorites:

Manti soup from Anteb

BBQ skewers in Artashi mot

Transportation

Yerevan has it all: metro, trains, buses, taxis ... We found buses very effective to go around the city, but if crowded they are not that comfortable, there are people that even sit next to the driver. The bus rides in Yerevan are also cheap, they cost 100 AMD per person - you pay once you are going out of the bus to the driver, either to him directly or leave the coins in a container with coins beside him. Metro in Yerevan also works quite well, the line is short but reaches long distances. The metro works with small orange tokens, which you can buy at the entrance of most metro stops for 100 AMD. If you prefer taking a taxi, agree on a price upfront or use the App called Yandex to order a Taxi with upfront prices (like Uber). Not only for ordering, but the Yandex App has also maps and detailed information about public transport, which is much more accurate than Google's bus schedule. To use Yandex, you will need data - we got a SIM card at Viva-MTS. 

Curiosities about Yerevan