Lisbon's coastline

March 2023

Portugal's coastline is a mesmerizing stretch of land that boasts captivating vistas of the Atlantic Ocean. From idyllic beaches to rugged cliffs and charming towns, it's no surprise that it's a popular destination among tourists. To fully experience its beauty, we decided to rent a van for three nights and explore at our leisure. We were lucky enough to visit some of the most picturesque towns along the coastline, including Nazare, Peniche, and Cascais. Apart from these, we also visited the historic town of Sintra and the religious site of Fatima. With our trusty van, we had the freedom to take in the stunning scenery and stop at various lookout points along the way. So, come along with us on this adventure as we discover the enchanting allure of Portugal's coastline with the added flexibility and independence of renting a van.

Day 1: Vigia beach cliff viewpoint

Our first day of the road trip began with picking up our rented caravan and stocking up on groceries for the journey. Excited and eager to explore, we made our way to Vigia beach, where we decided to park our van for the night. The flat terrain where we slept overlooked the stunning beach and the rugged coastline providing us with a breathtaking view.  The cliff overlooking the beach was full of flourishing sowthistle (Sonchus arvensis).  We spent the evening watching the sunset and listening to the calming sounds of the waves crashing against the shore while having a picnic. The serene surroundings made for a perfect start to our trip.

The next day, waking up in Vigia was a refreshing experience. It was delightful to wake up in the morning, step out of the van, and feel the cool breeze of the ocean on our faces. It was a beautiful feeling to be surrounded by nature, with nothing but the sound of waves simultaneously breaking on the shore - sometimes quite violently. The pristine beach was a sight to behold, and it felt like we were in our little paradise.

After breakfast, we went down to the beach to explore the area. As we walked around, I stumbled upon an amazing ecosystem that was thriving in the sand dunes. Some plant species I found included European beach grass (Ammophila arenaria), sea holly (Eryngium maritimum), sea medick (Medicago marina), rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum) and buck's horn plantain (Plantago coronopus). All these are native (not exclusively) to Portugal, very resistant, and coastal plants. On a particular section of the beach, there were rock formations with widgeongrass (Ruppia maritima) growing on top. The constant waves brought water to and from these rock formations. Within the spaces between the rocks, water flowed in and out, and there were mollusks living within these spaces.

The ecosystem was a reminder of the importance of preserving our natural environment and how we must make an effort to protect and conserve it. Walking on the beach, feeling the sand under our feet, and discovering the ecosystem was an experience that we would always cherish. It was the perfect start to our day and set the tone for the rest of our adventure.


View of the beach from the cliff where we camped

Going down to the beach (last part)

View of the cliff from the beach. This picture also shows European beach grass on the beach.

Sea holly in praia da Vigia

Rock formations with widgeongrass

Shot of the gaps in between the rocks

Day 2: Fátima, Nazaré and campsite

Fátima

After exploring the beach, we headed north to Fatima. Fatima is a town in Portugal that holds significant religious importance for Catholics around the world. In 1917, three young shepherds claimed to have received apparitions of the Virgin Mary on six separate occasions in Fatima. The Virgin Mary, according to the children, had a message for the world, calling for prayer, penance, and devotion to her Immaculate Heart. The Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima was built in response to these apparitions, and it has since become a popular pilgrimage site for millions of Catholics each year. 

Many pilgrims come to Fatima to participate in religious ceremonies and to seek spiritual healing and renewal. One of the most common offerings that people make when visiting Fatima is the lighting of candles. Pilgrims light candles as a symbol of their prayers and intentions, and they may leave them burning as a visible sign of their devotion. Another common offering is the recitation of the rosary, which is a traditional Catholic prayer that is said to bring spiritual protection and guidance. In addition to these offerings, many pilgrims also participate in processions, attend Mass, and visit the Chapel of Apparitions, where the Virgin Mary is believed to have appeared to the children. Some pilgrims also participate in acts of penance, such as walking on their knees or fasting, as a way of demonstrating their devotion and sacrifice.

Overall, the offerings that people make when visiting Fatima are a reflection of their deep religious faith and their desire to connect with the divine. Through their prayers, candles, and other offerings, pilgrims seek to deepen their spiritual connection with the Virgin Mary and to receive her blessings and guidance in their lives.

Nazaré

After that, we drove to Nazare, which is known for its stunning beaches and surfing spots. We walked down from the parking to Forte de Sao Miguel Arcanjo, which has an amazing view of Praia do Norte and Praia da Nazaré. Here, we witnessed a surfer riding massive waves and being carried by them toward the shore. He was aided by a water motorbike which helped him return to his position and catch the perfect wave. Also here on our way to the cliff, we can find a statue called 'Veado' that depicts a deer riding a surfboard, owing to the presence of deer in the area and a popular belief of a hunter who followed a deer until (almost) falling from a cliff. We also explored the town, which had a charming old-world vibe with its cobbled streets and white-washed houses.

Campsite in Foz do Arelho


On that particular night, we decided to stay at the Foz do Arelho campsite. Fortunately, the campsite provided electricity, which was a great convenience since we needed to charge our van. Although the campsite did not have a bathroom, we were fortunate to have one in our van - a discovery that made our trip more comfortable.

For dinner, we decided to check out a local restaurant called Cais da Praia, and we were not disappointed. We tried a traditional Portuguese dish called pulpo a la lagareira, which was absolutely delicious. The dish consisted of a tender octopus that had been boiled and baked with garlic, olive oil, and paprika, making it a flavorful and savory choice. It is said that the dish originated in the coastal region of Algarve, where fishermen would cook it as a hearty meal after a long day at sea. 

Inside Fátimas church. This high altar is the focal point of the church located at its very end, and it is decorated with ornate marble statues and carvings. Behind the altar is a large mosaic that depicts the coronation of the Virgin Mary as the Queen of Heaven.

The church features stunning stained glass windows that fill the interior with a colorful and ethereal glow. These windows depict scenes from the Bible and the history of the Church, creating a spiritual and contemplative atmosphere for visitors.

Statue of pope Juan Pablo II at Fátima. In 1981, he was shot by an assassin in St. Peter's Square. Many people believe that the third secret of Fatima, which predicted the shooting of a bishop dressed in white by soldiers, foretold the assassination attempt on the pope. The pope himself suggested this connection and even donated one of the bullets that was removed from his body to the shrine at Fatima.

Our lunch in Fátima, "Bacalhau à Brás" made by frying shredded potatoes and onions in olive oil until crispy, then adding pieces of salt cod (bacalao) that have been soaked to remove the salt. The mixture is then mixed with beaten eggs and garnished with parsley and olives.



Praia do Norte in Nazaré, where the world record of the largest wave ever surfed was set in October 2020. The wave measured a staggering 26.21 meters (86 feet), making it an extraordinary accomplishment in the world of surfing.



Sculpture called 'Veado'

Church in Foz do Arelho

Octopus 'a Lagareiro' with spinach and boiled potatoes

View from camping site in Foz do Arelho. This adjacent lagoon at Foz do Arelho beach, connected to the Atlantic Ocean by a narrow channel, boasts a unique ecosystem and diverse aquatic life.

Day 3: Peniche, Palácio da Pena and Praia de Carcavelos

Peniche

On the third day, we woke up early to head to Peniche, where we had breakfast at a lookout point overlooking the sea. The view was spectacular, and we felt invigorated by the fresh sea air. We then drove further south, stopping at a stunning landscape with rock formations and the European shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis). European shags are medium-sized birds with black feathers and a green gloss, and a distinctive crest on their forehead. They dive underwater to catch fish and form breeding colonies on rocky cliffs and offshore islands along the coast of Portugal, as well as in other parts of Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East. Historically, they were hunted for their meat and feathers, used for making quills, but now they are protected by law and their populations are monitored for conservation. We spent some time taking photos and admiring the natural beauty of the place. 

Palácio da Pena

Our next stop was Sintra, where we visited the Pena Palace. This Palace was built in the 19th century during the Romantic era by King Ferdinand II, who was an artist and collector. He transformed the former monastery into a palace, incorporating various architectural styles and decorative elements from around the world. After his death, the palace was used by the Portuguese royal family as a summer residence. In 1908, King Carlos I and his eldest son Crown Prince Luís Filipe were assassinated in Plaça do Comercio in Lisbon.  The assassination was a significant event in Portuguese history and was one of the factors that contributed to the revolution that led to the establishment of the Portuguese Republic in 1910. Since then, the palace was turned into a national monument, open to the public for visits. Today, the Pena Palace is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Portugal and is a testament to the country's rich history and cultural heritage. The palace is surrounded by gardens, with flowers of multiple colours from which I would highlight the purple of the greater periwinkles (Vinca major), the light green of the Mediterranean spurge (Euphorbia characias), the white of the evergreen Azaleas (Rhododendron indicum), the pink of the Spanish shawl (Heterocentro elegans) and the vivid red of the Japanese camellia (Camellia japonica).

Cascais

Our final destination was Praia de Carcavelos, near Cascais, where we spent the night. We sipped wine and watched the waves as the sunset. The atmosphere was relaxed and peaceful, and we enjoyed the company of the locals who were out walking their dogs, surfing, or just enjoying a day near the sea. 

View from Ilheu da Papôa where we had breakfast

Cape Carvoeiro Viewpoint. If you have a very good zoom, you can see a colony of European shag...

...here they are!

Here we see the bronze statue of a merman holding a shell, called Triton, in the main entrance of Palacio da Pena.  Created by Francisco Santos, in the 19th century, the Triton is a decorative element of the palace, which was commissioned by King Ferdinand II and is known for its Romantic style and eclectic design.



The interior patio of the Palacio da Pena is a beautiful and colorful space that features intricate tilework and architectural details.

Family tree of the Portuguese royalty.  King Ferdinand II (top middle) built the Palácio da Pena.  Inside the palace we could visit rooms from different members or the royalty and how they were repurposed in every generation. 

Sunset in Palacio da Pena

A bumblebee polinating Azaleas (Rhododendron) in the gardens of Palácio da Pena

Praia de Carcavelos

Day 4: Lisbon

After waking up next to the beach and enjoying a cup of coffee, we drove back to return the van and spent the rest of the day exploring Lisbon. Our first stop was Belem, where we were fascinated by the Belem Tower - a historic monument that stands as a testament to Portugal's rich cultural heritage. Built in the 16th century, the tower was designed as a fortress to protect the city from foreign invaders and served as a crucial defensive structure for many years.

Next, we visited the Monument to the Discoverers, a stunning piece of architecture that pays homage to the brave Portuguese explorers who set sail in search of new lands and adventures. The monument features larger-than-life sculptures of famous explorers such as Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, and serves as a reminder of Portugal's significant contribution to the Age of Discovery.

Later, we walked from the Plaça do Comercio up the Avenida da Liberdade, a broad avenue lined with elegant shops, cafes, and restaurants. We even got to eat for the last time on this trip some delicious Bacalhau (codfish) at O Fernandinho - a highly recommended restaurant that served up traditional Portuguese dishes. We also tried Ginginha, a traditional Portuguese liqueur made from sour cherries, sugar and aguardente. It's history dates back to the 19th century, when a man named Espinheira started selling the drink in a small tavern in Lisbon's Rossio Square. We drank the liquor version with chocolate (drinking the liquor from a chocolate cube) from the famous Ginginha do Carmo, located near the Carmo Convent in Lisbon's historic centre. This bar is known for its homemade version of the drink, which is made using only natural ingredients and no artificial flavorings.

Torre de Belem

Padrao dos Descobrimientos

Plaça do Comercio

As the day drew to a close, we headed to the airport with memories of a fantastic trip filled with natural beauty, history, and delicious food. Overall, our trip to Portugal was a wonderful experience, filled with adventure, natural beauty, and cultural richness. We were impressed by the warmth and hospitality of the people, and we hope to return someday to explore more of this beautiful country.


Tips

Do not forget to pack:


Download Park4Night App to look for camping spots for your van. 

Thank you Ale and Andrea for making this trip amazing ❤️