Winter in Tromsø

In February 2022, I embarked on a four-day trip (24.02-01.03) to Tromso - a picturesque city located in the northern part of Norway. Famous for its breathtaking natural scenery and unique winter activities, Tromso proved to be an unforgettable destination.

Tromsø

Tromsø has a unique geographical location. The city is situated within the arctic circle on an island surrounded by fjords and mountains, which provide a stunning view and outdoor activities year-round. Despite its northern location, Tromsø is a lively and cosmopolitan city with a rich cultural scene.  It is also known as the "Gateway to the Arctic," as it is a popular starting point for Arctic expeditions and tours to see the Northern Lights. The city is also known for its vibrant nightlife, with numerous bars, restaurants, and cafes catering to locals and visitors alike. For instance, I recommend having a drink (and by that I mean, beer) in Olhallen, a history bar located in the heart of Tromsø. Founded in 1928, Olhallen is one of the oldest bars in the city.  It is known for its cozy atmosphere, local beers from the Mack Brewery, and traditional Norwegian cuisine, including fish soup and reindeer stew. Its interior is decorated with vintage memorabilia, including old photographs, antique beer bottles, and hunting trophies, which give the bar a nostalgic and rustic feel.

During our trip, we had the chance to explore Tromsø's stunning natural landscapes. I recommend going up the nearest mountain with the Fjellheisen - a cable car that takes visitors to the top of Mount Storsteinen (345 NOK return - around 34 euros). From there, we were treated to breathtaking panoramic views of the city and the surrounding fjords, making for an unforgettable sightseeing experience. You can either buy a single trip to the top and hike down, or hike up and take a single trip down (although it's unclear if you can purchase a ticket at the top). We didn't attempt the hike down due to icy conditions during our visit.

Next, we visited the Arctic Cathedral - a modernist masterpiece that boasts striking triangular shapes and stunning stained glass windows. The cathedral is renowned for its acoustics and is a popular venue for concerts and cultural events.

For those interested in learning more about Tromsø's unique history and culture, we visited the Polar Museum. This fascinating museum delves into the city's Arctic past and showcases a range of exhibits, including information about polar exploration, hunting and fishing, and the region's indigenous Sami people. Moreover, there is also a very interesting part about Willem Barents' Dutch expedition to find a northern route to Asia for the Dutch East India Company in 1596. With three ships, Barents' expedition took one month from the Netherlands to reach the Arctic waters of Svalbard for the first time. While exploring Svalbard, their ships became trapped in ice, and they overwintered on Novaya Zemlya. Barents died, but his explorations and maps were important for future Arctic expeditions.

We also had a tour around the eastern side of the island in the Hermes II, where its owner told us about its story. The Hermes II boat is a historic vessel that was built in 1912 as a fishing boat. During World War II, it was used in the Norwegian resistance against the German occupation*. After the war, it was restored and converted into a tourist attraction offering guided tours of Tromsø's fjords. It is now a beloved part of Tromsø's cultural heritage.

*During the Second World War, Germany occupied Norway from 1940 until 1945. The invasion of Norway by German forces, code-named Operation Weserübung, was intended to secure access to iron ore shipments from Sweden, which were essential for Germany's war efforts. The occupation of Norway resulted in a harsh regime that was marked by repression, forced labor, and deportations of Norwegian Jews and other minorities to concentration camps. Despite some resistance from Norwegians, the German occupation remained in place until the end of the war, when German forces withdrew in the face of advancing Allied troops. The occupation had a profound impact on Norwegian society, both during and after the war, and is remembered as a dark period in the country's history.

Polaria is an Arctic aquarium and museum located in Tromsø, Norway. It showcases the unique marine life and culture of the Arctic region. While I did not personally visit Polaria, from what I have heard, it is definitely worth a visit. The museum features interactive exhibits, including a panoramic cinema and a touch pool where you can handle sea stars and other creatures, a great way to learn about the Arctic and its inhabitants.

Experiencing Tromsø's winter

Dog sledding

No trip to Tromso would be complete without experiencing some of the winter activities that the city is famous for. One of the highlights of our trip was going sledding with dogs - an exhilarating experience that allowed us to interact with friendly huskies and take in the stunning scenery of Tromso's wilderness. Personally, this experience was a highlight of the trip, as I love being outdoors, especially with animals. The thrill of sledding was exhilarating, and I felt a sense of control over the speed and direction of the sled. Although it was my first time, I found myself adapting to the activity effortlessly, making the entire experience feel natural. We booked our experience in Tromsø with Pukka travels and we had this experience in Lyngsfjord Aventure, a 1h30min drive from Tromsø. The activity is half a day and details of the itinerary can be found in this website.

Northern lights

We had the incredible opportunity to witness the awe-inspiring aurora on two separate occasions. During the first encounter, we ventured to the southern part of the island on our own (specifically, we waited here, we went there walking), braving freezing temperatures that were so extreme that our beer actually froze. Despite enduring the cold for some time, we were eventually rewarded with a breathtaking display of green and purple lights dancing across the night sky. As it was the first time for both my friend and I to witness this natural phenomenon, we were left completely in awe. 

We were so enamored with our first aurora experience that we were eager to see them again. However, on our last night in Tromso, the weather forecast wasn't promising, with cloudy skies ahead. To ensure we didn't miss out, we decided to book a tour with GetYourGuide that offered an aurora tour and a crash course on aurora photography. Unfortunately, the forecast proved to be true, and we ended up driving for over three hours to Finland, where the skies were clearer. Despite the long journey, we were once again able to witness the auroras, though this time it was quite different. Instead of being on our own, we were with a group of people in a random parking lot, all taking photos and admiring the auroras. The display itself was also somewhat different from our first experience, as the auroras were grayer and spread out across the sky, as opposed to being vivid and concentrated in one area. Both experiences were undeniably fantastic, but I personally preferred our first outing, despite the cold and uncertainty. 

These are the instructions for taking photos of the northern lights that I learnt:

• Set the camera mode to manual.

• Set the ISO to the maximum without exceeding 3200. This increases the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light during the night.

• Set the f-number to the lowest possible aperture. This allows the camera to capture all the available light.

• Set the shutter speed to around 8 seconds. This is called long exposure and allows the camera to capture the Northern Lights without blurring moving objects.

• Set the focus to infinity and adjust it to the Northern Lights.

• Set the white balance to automatic.

Our trip to Tromso was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that allowed us to connect with nature and explore a unique and stunning part of the world. With its stunning natural landscapes, fascinating history, and unforgettable winter activities, Tromso truly is a winter wonderland that should be on everyone's travel bucket list.

Overnight:

We were quite spontaneous on this trip, which led us to not having a spot to stay in the first hostel we stayed in and which we really liked: Tromso Coco Apartments. However, thanks to this during this trip we stayed in a hostel, an Airbnb, and a hotel, therefore I can give advice on all of them:

• Tromso Coco Apartments: Tromso Coco is a cozy hostel located in the heart of Tromso. The owner creates a welcoming and social atmosphere, making it easy for guests to meet fellow travelers. The hostel has a communal kitchen and lounge area where guests can relax, cook and socialize. The bunk beds are comfortable and the rooms are kept clean. The location is ideal, as it is just a short walk to many restaurants, bars and shops in the area. Overall, it is a great budget-friendly option for travelers looking for a comfortable and social experience in Tromso. In Winter, it costs us around 60 euros per person / night. 

• Radisson Blue: The Radisson Blu Hotel in Tromso is a modern and stylish hotel located in the heart of the city center, near the port and where the tours usually start. The hotel features comfortable rooms and suites with modern amenities such as free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and coffee/tea facilities. Guests can also enjoy the hotel's fitness center, sauna, and on-site restaurant, which serves delicious Nordic cuisine.

• Studio 1: Cozy and practical studio to stay in with its spacious bathroom, bunk bed with a TV, and kitchen facilities. Suitable option for those looking for a budget-friendly and self-sufficient accommodation in Tromso. In Winter, it costs us around 75 euros per person / night. 

Food:

Fishing is a significant industry in Norway, and Tromsø is a key location for it due to its strategic location near rich fishing grounds. The industry contributes significantly to the country's economy and provides employment opportunities for many Norwegians. The most commonly caught fish in Norway include cod, herring, and salmon, and they are exported globally. In this line, Tromso is known for its fresh seafood and traditional Nordic cuisine. Here are some restaurants that I was recommended (I just went to the first one):

1. Fiskekompaniet - This seafood restaurant is located in the heart of Tromso and offers a variety of fresh seafood dishes. Highly recommended dishes include the Arctic char and the seafood platter. (I actually did come here and it's where I ate fish cheeks)

2. Mathallen - This indoor food market offers a variety of Norwegian and international foods. Try the traditional Norwegian dish of Fårikål, a lamb stew with cabbage and potatoes.

3. Skirri - This restaurant serves traditional Sami cuisine, the indigenous people of Norway. Try the Bidos, a Sami reindeer stew.

4. Bardus Bistro - This cozy bistro offers a mix of traditional Norwegian and international dishes. Highly recommended dishes include the reindeer burger and the fish soup.

5. Raketten - Try the reindeer hotdog for a unique twist.

6. Kjøttbasaren - This restaurant specializes in traditional Norwegian meat dishes, including elk, reindeer, and whale. Try the reindeer filet for a truly Norwegian experience.

7. Mack Brewery - This brewery serves up local beers and traditional Norwegian snacks like flatbread and smoked salmon.