The West Coast

The West Coast of California is one of the most scenic and diverse regions in the United States. Stretching from the sun-soaked beaches of San Diego to the rugged coastline of Northern California, this region offers something for every kind of traveler. If you're planning a trip to the West Coast of California, you won't want to miss out on some of the region's top destinations like San Diego, Los Angeles, and Santa Barbara. However, if you're looking for a unique and unforgettable experience, be sure to visit the rugged cliffs and wildlife of Piedras Blancas and Monterey. The area is home to a variety of wildlife, including elephant sea lions! 

Beaches in northern San Diego 

Our adventure on the West Coast began in northern San Diego, where we arrived just in time to witness the beautiful sunset over the beach. We parked our RV above the Black Beach in front of UC San Diego, check the location of the parking here. Before the sun fully set, we ventured down to the beach through several stairs located on the south part of the parking area. Although we were tempted to swim, we hesitated due to the strong currents and waves of the Pacific coast. Instead, we enjoyed dipping our feet in the water and relishing its refreshing coolness after a scorching hot day.

The next morning, we woke up early and were ready to GO DIVING! We got ready in the van and headed to have breakfast in the parking lot next to our diving site: La Jolla Beach! However, our excitement was almost halted when our instructor warned us about the fierce waves that could make it difficult for us to return to the beach after our dive. After convincing him of our previous diving experience, we were thrilled to finally dive into the water. Fortunately for me, it wasn't shark season during our dive (if you want to see leopard sharks, be sure to visit at the beginning of summer when they breed, check more info in this website), so my irrational fear of sharks didn't get triggered and I felt more confident about diving.

Although the currents were strong and unrelenting, we managed to reach a maximum depth of 14m. The visibility was limited also due to the currents and kelp that surrounded us, but it was still a sight to behold, sometimes a bit creepy due to limited visibility and kelps all around you. Then, a playful seal even came to check us out! It swam up and down in front of us joyfully and then left. La Jolla Beach is renowned for its seals, which can be observed even if you're not diving. We also had the chance to see crabs blending into the sediment, and we finally spotted the Garibaldi fish, which is the official state fish of California. We were lucky enough to witness the male's unique behavior of fiercely protecting its nest. In short, males construct a nest by cleaning flat surfaces on rocks and attracting females during the breeding season (which can last all summer). Female Garibaldi fish are very picky about choosing a nest, but when they finally lay the eggs on the cleaned surface, the male directly fertilizes them and guards them until the eggs hatch.  Find more information about this fish here. 

After our exhilarating dive, we showered at the public showers next to the beach and went back to La Jolla Beach to admire the sea lions. Both my friend and I are wildlife enthusiasts, so we spent several hours observing these social animals. We witnessed a harem of sea lions consisting of one dominant male, multiple females, and their offspring. The dominant male was noticeably bigger and fiercely guarded his territory and females. In this instance, the male was swimming around (even sometimes approaching swimmers), aiming at protecting the area around the females, which were laying chilling on the rocks. 

Venice beach

Venice Beach is definitely a must-visit spot in Los Angeles if you're looking for a unique and eclectic atmosphere. You can stroll along the beach, either near the coast or on the promenade. Renting a bike or walking are great options to explore the area. There are tons of shops selling interesting stuff, although some of it can be quite touristy, and you'll also find plenty of street performers to entertain you. At the south end of the beach, you'll come across a skate park and basketball courts, which can be a lot of fun to check out - lots of people around either playing sports or watching. And at the north end of the beach, you'll find the Santa Monica Pier. It's a great spot for a leisurely walk, and you can even make your way there along the beach - super relaxing!

Malibu

Next to you, the skies are blue, in Malibu 🎵

The Malibu Lagoon State Beach is an ideal location for enjoying a sunny day by the shore and observing a diverse range of shorebirds in their protected, delimited habitat, including pelicans, osprey/fish hawk, snowy plover, seagulls, and cormorants. A short walk from the beach leads to Surfrider Beach, which is popular among surfers, and further along, you will reach the iconic Malibu Pier. The pier extends out into the Pacific Ocean and is a perfect option for a scenic lunch.

We had lunch in Malibu Lagoon State Beach, it was very windy. after exploring the surfrider beach and the pier, we stopped in my fathers old company (he collaborated with a company in Camarillo in the 90s). That night we slept in the Walmart's parking of Camarillo. We met a couple with the same van and us and we had a nice chat and a drink together, before going to sleep 

We decided to have lunch at Malibu Lagoon State Beach, but the wind was really strong that day. After finishing our meal, I ventured out to explore Surfrider Beach and the pier. On our way, we passed by Camarillo, where a company my father collaborated with during the 90s was located. Intrigued, we made a quick stop at his old workplace.

As the evening approached, we realized we needed a place to sleep. We found ourselves in Walmart's parking lot in Camarillo and decided to set up camp there. To our surprise, we saw another couple with a similar van to ours parked nearby. We struck up a conversation and ended up sharing drinks and stories together before settling in for the night. The next day we had an interesting day in Santa Barbara. 

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara boasts a rich history and stunning Spanish architecture. The area was originally home to the Chumash people for thousands of years before Spanish explorers arrived in the late 1700s. The Spanish influence is still evident in Santa Barbara today, especially in its most iconic landmark: the Santa Barbara County Courthouse.

The courthouse features Spanish colonial revival architecture, with intricate tile work and murals that showcase the city's history. You can enter the building for free and visit to the clock tower that provides breathtaking panoramic views of the city and ocean. Free one-hour tours are offered Monday through Friday at 10:30 am and 2:00 pm and weekends and court holidays (except Christmas) at 2:00pm with no reservations required, check more information about them here. 

Old Mission Santa Barbara is also worth visiting. Established by Franciscan friars in 1786 as the tenth California mission founded by the Spanish, the church's original goal was to convert the local Chumash people to Christianity and Spanish culture. Despite suffering damage in several earthquakes, it later became an important center for agriculture, education, and religion in the region. The church, with beautiful Spanish colonial architecture and ornate artwork, is still an active Catholic church that holds regular services for the local community. When we went, we could not go inside because there was a wedding taking place, but check guided tours on their website. 

Following our visit to Santa Barbara, we decided to drive to the beach and enjoy a seaside lunch. We had grown accustomed to dining by the ocean, and this particular beach was no exception. This beach was quite windy too, there were many people doing kite- and wind-surf. Our next stop was the charming town of Solvang, known for its distinctive Danish architecture.

Solvang

Solvang was founded in 1911 by a group of Danish-Americans who were looking to establish a Danish colony in the United States. They purchased nearly 10,000 acres of land and named it "Solvang," which means "sunny field" in Danish. The architecture of the town is heavily influenced by Danish culture, with half-timbered houses, windmills, and a replica of the Little Mermaid statue from Copenhagen.

Solvang became a popular tourist destination in the 1940s and 1950s, with visitors drawn to the town's unique Danish charm. Today, the town is still a popular tourist spot, with visitors coming to sample Danish pastries and browse the many boutique shops.  Solvang's rich Danish history and culture are still very much alive in the town today, with various festivals and events such as the Danish Days festival in September.

Any day at the rookery is warmer than the ocean depths, where elephant seals swim, which is why elephant seals slip sand onto their backs to stay cool. 

Seasonal Activities of Elephant Seals at Piedras Blancas

The elephant seals at Piedras Blancas engage in three distinct seasonal activities throughout the year, with some overlap and variations due to individual seals' behaviors.

Birthing and Breeding Season (November - March)

• Adult male elephant seals (bulls) start arriving in November, marking the start of the birthing and breeding season. Only the strongest and most aggressive males will reach the rank of alpha. Therefore, they fight to prove their strength, and although some fights might be bloody, they are almost never fatal. Males make a loud, hollow, resonant call, which is unique to each male, and is their most reliable way to recognize rivals they have interacted with. 

• Pregnant female seals arrive in December and give birth to pups, with birthing activity peaking in January at approximately 5,000 pups born annually at the Piedras Blancas rookery. 

• In the usual one month of nursing, the pup can quadruple its weight by nursing on milk that is over 50% fat! During that same stay, the mom loses about 40% of her body weight. 

• After nursing, the mother returns to the sea and now the weaned pup is left alone. However, the weaned pups gather into "pods" to avoid the activity of the bulls and the remaining mother jealously guarding their space for their own pups. During this time, the pups will live in their blubber for two or three months until it learns to feed on its first trip to sea. Moreover, they also shed their black birth hair, and new hair grows giving them a silvery appearance. 

• Finally, mating activity peaks in February, and by March, most adults have left, leaving only weaned pups behind.

Molting Season (April - August)

• In April, elephant seals shed their entire coat, including skin and hair, and replace it with a new gray skin underneath. Growing new skin at sea would cause tremendous heat loss, therefore, they come ashore for this process. Juvenile and adult female seals molt first, followed by adult and sub-adult male seals later. Weaned pups do not molt but lose their birth hair at around 6 weeks of age. 

• You can observe the first signs of puberty - the growth of the proboscis in males which starts at about the age of 5.

Fall Haul-Out Season (September - December)

• Some seals may arrive earlier or stay later than expected, causing this season to spread out and overlap with the other two.

• During this season, elephant seals haul out on the beaches for their post-molt migration. As they age to adulthood, they will make their return in the winter birthing and breeding season. 

Interesting facts about the Northern Elephant Seals

Northern elephant seals, which are named after their large noses (proboscis) that resemble an elephant trunk, are the second largest seals in the world, after southern elephant seals. They lack ear flaps and move on land by flopping on their bellies. When at the rookery, except for nursing pups, none of the seals eat or drink, as their food is found far out in the sea. Elephant seals are solitary and do not migrate as pups. 

Male elephant seals are much larger than females, with males reaching 4-5 meters in length and weighing up to 2,300 kilograms, while females are typically 2.5-4 meters in length and weigh between 400-800 kilograms. They forage in different areas and for different prey; males forage for food richer in proteins, such as skates, rays, hagfish, crabs, octopuses, and many other bottom-dwellers, along the continental margin of the Northwest Pacific coast and continental slope to the Gulf of Alaska. However, this area is also more dangerous as orcas and white sharks also hunt there, resulting in about one-third of males being lost every year. On the other hand, females tend to go north and west as much as 4,800 kilometers and feed mostly on small fish and some squid.

After having a great time in Piedras Blancas, we enjoyed some delicious tacos for lunch and then made our way towards Pfeiffer Beach. Before heading out, we stopped at a gas station where we had a delightful conversation with the attendant about renewable energy.

Pfeiffer Beach

As we approached Pfeiffer Beach, we were taken aback to discover that we were not allowed to reach the beach by van - our van was too large to navigate the narrow road going down to the beach.  Note to self: when planning a beach trip with an RV, make sure to double-check the accessibility beforehand. We could also not hike down, as pedestrian access to the beach was also prohibited - I also wouldn't recommend it due to the heavy flow of cars passing through the area, sometimes quite quickly.

But we weren't about to let a little setback ruin our plans. With only 30 minutes until the beach's closing time, we decided to try our luck and hitchhike down. Standing at the beginning of the road, we eagerly waved down passing cars until a kind-hearted driver stopped to offer us a lift. As we descended to the beach, we felt a rush of excitement and gratitude for the opportunity to experience its beauty. 

The sand was a stunning shade of purple in some parts, due to the minerals present in the soil from the nearby rock formations. We arrived just in time to catch the breathtaking sunset, surrounded by a handful of other beachgoers who were also admiring the view and capturing the moment with their cameras. While taking photos, Irene struck up a conversation with a friendly stranger who turned out to be a software engineer at Facebook. As we chatted, we learned about his inspiring journey from a poor family in India to achieving his dreams through private funding to study in Los Angeles. His humility and emotional background left a lasting impression on us. When it was time to leave, he offered to drive us back up to the top.

Following the stunning sunset at Pfeiffer Beach, we made our way to Carmel-by-the-Sea where we spent the night in a parking lot near a supermarket. We were not the only ones camping there, as a few other RVs were parked nearby. One of the perks of staying there was having access to the 24-hour supermarket, which meant we could use the bathroom facilities whenever we needed to. All in all, it turned out to be a convenient spot to rest for the night.

Monterey

Our last stop in California with the van - Monterey. We woke up early and had breakfast on some benches in the park next to the beach. After a leisurely start to the day, we arrived at the rental shop at 11am, suited up, and headed out to sea. The wind was incredibly strong, and it was a challenge to stay on course as it pushed us toward another beach. To stay in place despite the wind and waves, we held onto the kelp. We eventually managed to kayak against the wind and headed south. As we went further south, the coastline became more touristy, with hotels, restaurants, and people on their balconies admiring the ocean views, including us kayaking.

We kayaked for a while together before splitting up and then being carried by the wind in different directions. Suddenly, I saw something spectacular in the distance - a group of three dolphins swimming in perfect synchronization, heading southward. It was amazing to see them in their natural habitat, undisturbed by human activity.

Afterwards, we turned back to the beach we started from and went further north, being carried away by the wind this time, which made it a lot easier. On the port rocks, there were some sea lions resting. Before returning to back to the starting cove, we stopped a few meters from the shore, and we were humbled by the scenery as we held onto the kelp for a while. Then, a curious seal came super close to us, popping its head above the water several times to look at us with its slightly reddish eyes. It was black with some white spots, and its skin felt tight and shiny. At one point, it even swam beneath my kayak, which was a bit scary. Some otters also came close to us. At such a short distance we could now see their whiskers moving and hear them chewing their food. Later, we learned that there are two sea otter species on the West Coast, with one species covering California and Mexico and the other species on the coast of Alaska. It was an incredible experience just staying still and letting nature come to us.